Let’s all admit that we love some color, and the MMSMP line has something for everyone…I am personally a huge fan of the blues. My house is full of them.
But when you can’t make up your mind on colors, stay neutral. Classics like white and black will never go out of style, and you can accent with them no matter your taste.
I wanted to share some tips for you when using blacks, namely milk paint blacks..
IF you have played with Typewriter before, and had some snags- or perhaps felt the color wasn’t dark enough for you- let’s address that now.
Typewriter is actually an “off black”- just as you can have an “off white.” The color is based on a smokey dark charcoal black- and will at times seem to have more of a grayish hue to it.
Also- when using up to equal parts of bonding agent or more in your typewriter mix, you may notice a cloudiness to your color.
This is easily rememdied by mixing a wash of the black paint up- after your bonding agent coat is cured (up to 24 hours)and the cloudiness should dissipate. The wonderful nature of milk paint is you have ingredients such as clay and limestone in the paint- that will cause your paint to dry significantly lighter and “Chalkier.”
A personal default of mine when using typewriter is to use Hemp Oil to finish. It rich-ens the black right up and gives it a gorgeous sheen.
Another default top coat of mine for black is antiquing wax. Yes, that’s right! Antiquing wax! When I want to make sure that my black stays dark and rich- I opt for the darker waxes vs. the clear furniture wax. This ensures I don’t get a cloudy or muted black.
On this set- that was orginally cherry, the dark wax not only kept my black- black, but made the expossed cherry wood soft and aged, versus highly contrasting red.
The color goes from black to gray- and the finish looks layered and worn.
Don’t be afraid to step out of the box and do a dark piece with antiquing wax, and a lighter piece with white wax. The colored waxes can actually help your color stay true.